Escalade in Geneva or...

 

Scaling the walls and running for fun.

 

Last year due to the pandemic neither the race (the largest one in Switzerland) nor the parade took place. This year they were able to run the race, over two days and with half the participants of normal years, ie “only” 26’000 instead of the 43’000 of 2019!

There are categories from the 4 and 5 year-olds who run with a parent, through all the ages and up to the Elite.

This year I did watch part of it on Sunday, the atmosphere is such fun that one forgot that we were wearing masks even outside. The children were so enthusiastic and even I found myself cheering them on, I who had no one running!

 

The Elite saw mostly Kenyans winning, but even they, although happy to win, were in it more for the pleasure than anything.

 

This is the 43^rd edition of the run, the celebrations about Escalade having been going on much longer.

 

But what is “Escalade”?

In1602, Geneva, a rich and prosperous republic, attracted the attention and jealousy of the Savoyards. Charles-Emmanuel 1er, wanted to make Geneva his capitol to the North of the Alps and intended to combat Calvinism with the support of Pope Clement VIII, in spite of a “peace, sworn to and re-sworn to”.  So during the night of the 11^th to the 12^th of December (the longest night) 1602 a troop of 2000 soldiers tried to take the town by surprise. They came from the plains and mercenaries started climbing the walls, which surrounded the city (thus the name Escalade). The alarm was sounded, the cathedral’s bells (never mind that it was now a protestant church, we still call it the cathedral), in particular the Clémence (still exists), were rung. Citizens armed with whatever they found to hand and their courage joined the fray and come morning 54 of the enemy had died and only 18 of the Genevans and the Savoyards gave up. One figure of note was the Mère Royaume who was known to have killed one climbing soldier by pouring her hot vegetable soup on him. Still today we have chocolate cauldrons filled with marzipan vegetables to celebrate this fact!

 

In any case always good fun, great hot wine, chocolates and the like.

 

spectators of the race in Old Town Geneva

Runners, probably the 9-year olds

Hot wine... best part of the day!

 

 

Barefoot in the park

Having had a very social life the past couple of weeks – and looking forward to even more events, I had decided that I would take the day “off” Wednesday the 3^rd and simply buy a day pass for the public transportation system and wander Geneva.

There were a few ideas in the back of my head, one of which was to visit the flea market at Plainpalais, but as it turned out it was a good thing that I hadn’t had any as I didn’t even make that.

Leaving home I headed for town then deviated to run an errand near the Old Town. That in turn had me exploring things that I had never seen: some architectural, the rear of the Russian Orthodox church, an “installation” – even led to the discovery of a Henry Moore sculpture that I am sure 99% of Geneva’s inhabitants don’t even know is there.

Architecture in Geneva is so varied

Architecture in Geneva is so varied

Architecture in Geneva is so varied

 

François Lefort, Admiral and General under Peter the Great

How did his statue get up on the bluff behind the Russian Orthodox church ?

The Russian Orthodox church under scafholding

One of the seven golden cupolas down for repairs

An "Installation", of 7 TV screens - nothing currently playing though

The Henry Moore sculpture

 

John Calvin's school had been recently renovated: still an operating high school

Entrance to the State's Courthouse - on the right was the old prison

The fountain at the Bourg du Four - a gathering place for many

Entrance to the Courthouse

It was close to noon when I arrived at the Bourg du Four – the ancient center of Old Town -there where bread was baked, where the market took place back in medieval times and where the inhabitants gathered to talk. I remembered that the Lutheran Church had noon concerts so wandered down to see what the day’s offering was: oh yeah Bach, Beethoven among others played by the FOG trio (although it is simply the letters of their names, they re-arranged them on purpose to spell FOG as – as the moderator said – they are often not quite clear as to where they are going) and only a half-hour to wait. 

The Lutheran Church - built to look simply like a Manor House in order to not detract from the cathedral, it was the first "foreign" church to be allowed in Geneva after the Reformation

What better place to do so than at the coffee shop that replaced Mortimor’s (for the year that I worked with the first pastor before he returned to the USA, he would often suggest that we go get coffee and take a break as we worked flat out for five hours the days that I was there). How the inside has changed, but the pastry and water were fine.  Enjoyed the concert then headed off to have lunch somewhere other than the usual places.

Building still the same

Inside entirely different!

The FOG trio: Christine Guignard, Olivier Fleury & Virginie Olsson

This meant walking down the hill to a bus stop – the one where I was planning on catching one to another of my recently discovered places. I had determined to take either the 25 (Botanical Gardens) or 9 (Délices) whichever showed up first, but when two had gone by without either being them, I changed the plan to simply the third bus – fate had it being one that went to the neighborhood where my older son had lived for several years – and a park that he had just recently shown me.  Starving and knew there was no restaurant so grabbed a sandwich and a bottle of water at the local Coop then went and laid out my newly purchased “Swiss” blanket in a small park tucked away from the city.  I did discover that perhaps my bones are no longer made for laying on the hard ground, but took off shoes and socks and stuck it out long enough to admire the sun and wind in the trees above me and eat my sandwich.

Then it was across the foot bridge that parallels the train tracks overlooking one of the most interesting natural sights in Geneva: the junction where the Rhone River coming out of the lake meets the Arve River coming down from the French Alps. The Arve on the right is glacial water and very gray and murky: the Rhone has gone through the lake and is pristine clear – such a difference.

Le Rhône et l'Arve

Had my afternoon coffee in the Bois de la Batie – another area of town known for its animal park and wonderful biking and hiking paths – and much enjoyed the sign in the restroom.

"Toilets: limited to 5 minutes, Reading tolerated"!

Then it was find the bus heading home in time to arrive for the last preparations of a wonderful Syrian evening. We ate well and way too much. I am blessed to have such friends: the conversation around the table was lively, the food greatly appreciated. Indeed a most wonderful birthday celebration. According to information that I received, I share my birthday with 20 million others in this world – but I sure felt special and only one that day.

Outwardly manifestations…

I hope that the love also travels inward.

Coming down the main road from the airport into town today I happened to pass by the Salvation Army’s nursing home – for want of a better word. It is in French an EMS or “medical and social establishment” (see this is why I like using all of my languages: the finesse that is sometimes lacking in one, is present in another, or the concept varies just enough to ring truer in one than the other).

I love what they have done to the facade, presumably in anticipation of Valentine’s Day, but maybe, just maybe it is simply an outwardly manifestation of the love to be found within those walls. By-the-way, the public is welcome to enter and enjoy coffee, tea or lunch.

In any case, the outwardly manifestation certainly made my heart fuller and me personally more willing to spread the love.

Things happening all over or…

Whoever said that nothing ever happens in Geneva, wasn’t in town this weekend!

 

Saturday I had to dash into town to pick up a map that had finally arrived at one of the local bookstores. As luck would have it – the Genevan police were celebrating their 200^th anniversary: one could watch them take care of a suspicious package; parade some of the more spectacular cars and motorcycles; attend “rescue” operations; sign up to become a policeperson or listen to the music – now I would love to have those policemen on duty in some of the neighbourhoods – the singer even had a decent voice!

In the afternoon I went down to the next village where they were also officially opening the bypass tunnel to the population and celebrating with the usual drink, hotdog and dessert stands. Didn’t stay long as hadn’t properly gotten off the ground yet.

Sunday I needed to pick someone up at the train station – and wow a Geneva I have never seen. The new station was being officially opened to the public (inauguration with the politicians had taken place some time before) and they had invited the Music School to provide the entertainment – chorales, ensembles, musicians of all sorts all over the place: I enjoyed some great jazz/gypsy music whilst waiting (www.maurice-klezmer.com) – almost regretted not being able to check out the other spots around town.

Monday – now talk about what is usually a totally dead day: it was. Only made the mad dash all the way across town to check out sofa beds for the attic. On the return as there was going to be traffic anyway, made a small detour and picked up burritos: yes you read correctly, we finally have a sort of Tex-Mex fast food that actually resembles that which we know and love.

Today, I needed to again go into town (for much less entertaining, excuse the pun, reasons – the dentist). Afterwards I went down the main tramline to do a couple of errands (o.k. to get some card stock and pick up chocolates to console myself!). On one of the main squares a pianist who’s goal is to compose and play in public: a cross between classical music and what I believe is now called a “happening” or artistic “performance”: A lovely interlude. www.julianlayn.com

Julian Layn, Swiss composer and pianist

Julian Layn, Swiss composer and pianist

Julian Layn, Swiss composer and pianist

 

Who knows what’s on for tomorrow – I intend heading back up to the mountains where the main entertainment is cows in the fields and clouds in the skies.

Lakefront in Corsier, Switzerland

Stillness

Twas the day after Christmas

And all through the canton

Nothing was stirring,

Not even the fountain.

Its reflection in the lake

Tall and straight: no wake.

Whispers of air existed not,

Its beauty forever caught.

Jet d'eau, Geneva, Switzerland

Beauty and hope

Seasons change; people change; our lives can take an unexpected path; nature can be a beast or a beauty

A(nother) great meal; a philosophical discussion with friends or family; laughs tinted with sadness at times; one can always find hope in the beauty of flowers, family, friends, food and if all else fails: there is the beauty of a rainbow at the end of the Jet d’Eau.

A beautiful Sunday

Or the downside of being self-employed.

Woke up to one of those glorious end-of-summer days where the heat is still present, the skies a bit hazy, but a light breeze to mitigate the whole.

It would have been lovely to have been able to simply wander down to the lake or take a long walk: as it was, I finally had the documents I needed to work on my client’s bookkeeping.

I did break the task by indulging in a lovely lunch with my youngest son, so, together with the drive in and out during which I could enjoy the beauty of the day, not feeling totally deprived.. In fact, feeling very virtuous, which is never a bad thing.

And, let it be said, that one of the upsides of working for oneself is taking off on that odd Tuesday or Wednesday, saving the work for a rainy Sunday: just too bad that today wasn’t one of those.

Playing tourist

In one’s own town is something to be highly recommended.

Lucky me, I am enjoying the visit of a childhood neighbor and her husband. Up until now they have always gone to exotic – and far from me here in the middle of Europe – destinations. This year following an archeological tour through Scandinavia they came down to stay with me before continuing on to England.

It was one of those glorious summer days that we rarely see: sunny, clear skies with our cold wind. Now this cold wind in the winter can be mighty unbearable: in the summer it just keeps the air clear and the temperatures reasonable.

After a visit to the medieval village of Yvoire, we went into Geneva itself.  

Yvoire

Wall of greenery

  

The original goal had been the archeological museum below the Cathedral St. Pierre (St. Peter’s cathedral), but as by the time we got there we only had less than an hour until closing and given the beauty of the day, we decided to walk up the South and North towers of the cathedral instead.  One has overview of Geneva, which only would be possibly by helicopter otherwise.

the Jet d'eau as seen from the cathedral

Not having time to take in the entire city, I opted to show them a little known spot: the Pointe à la Jonction (literally the point of the junction) where the Rhone, flowing out of lake Léman, meets the Arve, coming in from the alps: one is glacial waters, cold and murky; the other clear and of a much higher temperature. During the summer my oldest son has been one of the persons responsible for running an associative bar so we even got our drinks free!

On the way home, stopped to buy the fixings for salad and ice cream to celebrate my friend’s birthday: all in all – the perfect day.