More history and time travel on the Island of Orkney

Day 5 of the Scottish adventures

The bay in the morning light

After yet another wonderful breakfast in the conservatory this time we packed up, paid and got back on the road for another full day of touring. 

Crossed the barrier roads again and stopped to take picture at the second one that somehow we had missed the day before (low tide?). 

sunken ship, one of several

The Churchill Barriers

Then a stop at the Italian Chapel – one built by the Italian Prisoners of war that is the only relic of Camp 60, Italian POW  captured during the North African campaign who were sent to work on the Churchill Barriers. The story is one of cooperation in between the locals and the POW’s and has become one of the most visited places on the island. https://www.visitscotland.com/info/see-do/the-italian-chapel-p253741

The Italian Chapel

Inside: this is plaster on two tin quonset huts

Yet another bay and beautiful hill

Then on to the “stones”:

First visited the Stones of Stenness and the village (Barnhouse Neolithic village) next to it before backtracking to go to the restroom in Stenness – the Maeshowe attraction with shopping – yet again. 
 

part of the stones at the Stenness site

shelter from the wind; shelter from the sun

The Barnstone "village"

Loch of Harray by the Stenness and village ruins

The play of light on water was always beautiful

We then returned to see the Ness of Brodgar  - an ongoing archeological excavation – they have only discovered about 10% and that was followed by the Ring of Brodgar with its’ many stones up on a hillside. Time for lunch we set off towards an address of a restaurant, but G saw the Standing Stones hotel so we made a u-turn and had delicious tuna sandwiches there quickly as we had a 14h00 tour of Maeshowe.

https://www.visitorkney.com/https://www.visitorkney.com/

 

Ness of Brodgar

Surely a more recent "find" - sitting on one of the stones around the back

One of many standing stones throughout the island

For Maeshowe – a burial place – we were bussed out to the site then let in by the guide with explanations.

The Maeshowe burial site - no pictures allowed inside.

Took about an hour after which we were no longer in the mood for old stones or old anything. Returned to Kirkwall and headed for the Tesco where G and I went shopping whilst M had a nap in the car. When we went back to the car from our shopping he was sound asleep so we walked into the center of town and did a lovely souvenir store. Wanted to do the cathedral but saw a small museum and since it was closing time decided to return in the morning.

The St. Magnus cathedral founded in 1137

Tower near "Watergate"

 Back to our new quarters – the Bankburn Guest House ( http://www.bankburnhouse.co.uk/ )– no one apparently around so we simply walked in and put our stuff in our room, had the bottle of beer that G had bought with the Mermaid label and some of the cheese crackers that I had bought for cocktails then went back out in search of dinner. Mick’s wife recommended the Murray Arms restaurant in St.Margaret’s Hope so that’s what we did. Without reservations we had to eat in the pub – never mind. Had 5 starters and two desserts between us. I had the scallop soup and the fried cheese. Scrumptious. Back “home” I discovered that we really truly have wifi!

Part of St. Margaret's Hope

 Made the sunset as seen from the huge (albeit communal) bathroom even more splendid.

Back in time…

Several thousand years

Day 4 of the Scottish trip

Woke up at 6 and thought that I’d have trouble getting back to sleep especially as there was a bit of snoring going on, but put an ear plug in and all of a sudden I was dreaming of my travel companions being up – and they were. 8 a.m.!!! 

The bay by daylight from my window

 “Anything you want” the owner said when we enquired about the choices on the menu. I had the salmon and scrambled eggs, 

Fresh from the Island

G the Herring rolled in an oat batter and fried and M the full Scottish breakfast: all were delicious. Then, lucky us, the owner of The Sands Hotel in Burray – Kath – came up with a double and a single room for tonight. Ah a room of my own tonight and another great evening meal. However she still had nothing for Sunday except one double so called around and sent us off to meet Mick at the Bankburn (I have stayed in some weirdly named places “traitor’s gate” “swona”. We followed Kath’s (as it turned out her name was) husband (?) Stewart to there and first thing we saw: a Tesla hook-up, then the Tesla. Visited the available rooms for Sunday night and chose the double (no. 5) and the single (no.3) which would have been possible as a triple as there are two twin beds and a pull out sofa! Views out the back window are gorgeous so the euphoric feeling of actually having lodging for both nights kicked in making the days’ activities even more pleasant.

Off we went to find M’s ruins. Along the way we stopped first to take picture of the sunken boats not knowing until later that this was called the “Churchill Barrier” and had been done on purpose to block the passageway up the Scapa Flow against the Germans in WWII after the disastrous sinking of the Royal Oak with the loss of over 800 men: another little known fact is that the Scapa Flow was the naval base for the British fleet during both world wars. 
 

Sunken ships in the Scapa Flow

Then the GPS took us to a street in Kirkwall called Skara Brae instead of the site. Never mind as it allowed us to see where the cathedral was and stumble across the Visitor’s information. Got maps and info. Thereafter off to the real Skara Brae stopping to take pictures of the “beastie” – highland cows. 

Highland cow or "beastie"

Not native to the area - a Holstien

Hair in my face - and yet I'm a female in spite of appearances

Weather superb with sun and ever changing clouds. First stopped at Maeshow as we saw the cut off – fortunately we did this as the first available tour isn’t until tomorrow at 14h00! The girl was splendid though and we purchased the pass for the various spots that we wanted to see. A real bargain it turns out as only £15.10 and most entries were 5 – 7.50.  Then on to Skara Brae, the reason that M had planned this whole Orkney adventure: a Neolithic dwelling site that was discovered when a strong wind started ripping away the grass and turf in the 1850s. After touring the site we also went through the house of William Watt, of Skail, the local laird that allowed for the discovery before returning to the gift shop and lunch finally around 14h30 where I decided to have a scone and a double espresso (so late and I knew that I would have another good meal that night). Got to get all my favorites in whilst here after all. 

typical countryside

many, many, many dry stone walls

a mock of one of the original Skara Brae homes

On the bluff and in the bay

Skara Brae

Skara Brae

http://www.orkneyjar.com/history/skarabrae/
for anyone interested in more information

A whole field of rabbits

Many fields of sheep

Then we drove to many other sites including the Brough of Brisbay – a Nordic settlement. Here we should have paid, but no one around. Had to cross bits which would be covered at high tide and the views of the coastline were stupendous. On the way back across the bit of rock I picked up a couple of shells as souvenirs. Also looking for rocks.

The Lighthouse of the Brough of Brisbay stands on the top of the hill, a more modern tribute to the island. 

Criss crossing the island - much the same scenery and weather

near the Brough of Brisbay

Rocks at Brough of Brisbay

More rocks and the sea beyond

Looking North towards the cliffs along the Western coast

Nordic settlement

Then on to the Church of St. Magnus in Brisbay (est. 1064). Very simple inside – the graveyard surrounding it had many tilted tombstones. From there across the street Earl Robert’s palace. Lighting superb, ruins great.   

Earl Robert's castle - and a hay haul

 Then on to the Broch of Gurness, which was actually to me the one that produced the best feelings of “old”!  It was supposed to close in five minutes – was also supposed to cost an entrance fee, but there was no one so we did see it all before heading back to the car at the tail end and in some lowering skies. 

Broch of Gurness

Broch of Gurness

Back at The Sand’s hotel I picked up my luggage and went to “me” (easy to pick up the accent and the Scottish way of speaking) glorious and alone room!

We a dinner reservation for earlier this time – 19h15 and actually got there around 19h30. I ordered the scallops and have rarely had as good a meal: freshly caught by local divers, large and absolutely exquisite! There were carrots, broccoli and “tatties” as well. And of course another “Orkney Gold”. Nothing to not love.

One of the best meals of my life - long and as interesting as it has been!

Sunset through my window overlooking the same bay as the night before and dreams of ancient cultures made for good company.

Same bay as this morning's picture at the top

"The best laid plans of mice and men"…

Can go sadly array.

Day 3 - August 4 

Our Park Guest House in Inverness was delightful if a bit frustrating: no wi-fi to speak and my telephone didn’t always have access either. Getting a taste of what it might be like to be off grid, whether chosen or not. Down to the dining room for our pre-ordered breakfasts (the night before we were to write down our choices from the menu in the hall on scraps of paper) – lovely table and breakfast as ordered.

Park Guest House breakfast setting

Then it was off heading North to catch our ferry, stopping at the Aldi so I could get a toothbrush – forgotten in Edinburgh and not noticed until I needed it last night!

En route we stopped at the Dunrobin Castle and toured it – beautiful. Drive totally along the water thereafter – I hadn’t realized that this bit of Scotland is very similar to Cornwall with water on both sides. Looks larger and wider on the maps. We duly arrived at Gill’s Bay and the Ferry docks with two hours to spare. Checked on things then returned to John O’Groats for lunch. Ended up in a hotel/bar with some very interesting specials such as Texas fries, piri-piri chicken and the like. I was very tempted by the fajita, but in the end ordered a seafood platter starter (two pieces of herring, one of smoked salmon and a lot of shrimp cocktail). That and a mixed salad delicious – had also a bottled beer from directly across the street.

One of the very local brews

A misty day, but beautiful clouds and country

Not the only derrick we saw!

And yes, the colors were this bright!

The TAIN pottery factory and shop

Tain Pottery

A potter's hands

One of the stocking rooms - ready for the first kiln

A wee display of brushes for the hand painting

Entry to Dunrobin Castle

One of many fountains on the grounds

Part of one of the gardens

Satisfied we headed back to the Gill’s Bay Ferry dock and I paid for my single ticket then cracked and bought a cookie “custard cream” supposedly to go with coffee on the Ferry. We boarded and they squeezed us in tight (the cars that is) and went upstairs. 

The Pentland ferry - family run and owned

They had loading and parking down to a science

Clearance in between this truck and the rail was maybe 2 centimeters; in between it and the car on its' rear about 3 cm.

Very shortly thereafter my traveling companions realized that where we were supposed to stay tonight – and were booked – was on a totally different island way farther North. Panic, panic, panic as there was no way that we were going to be able to arrive at 17h30 in St.Margaret’s Hope, drive the half hour to Kirkwall then catch another ferry for an hour and a quarter for this other island (and the maps on the ferry were very clear). M. muddled, G. and I consulted the maps, thought of options etc. A chap to whom we explained our problem when we asked if there was an information booth at the arrival dock, said that there were 3 hotels that he could recommend: The Sands close to where we were arriving; the Standing Stones through Kirkwall and to the left or the Merkister which was up closer to the Neolithic ruins.  We all agreed that it wasn’t going to be possible to get to Pierowall that night. Then we discussed whether we even wanted to go at all given that we would have to back track on a ferry to come to the ruins etc. and more or less decided that we would ditch it entirely, suffering whatever costs that involved and hope to find rooms on the main island – not a given with all the festivals going on and the summer holidays on top of it!  Off we went – checking the Sands, which was the closest first. They were ever so busy so we waited. And got lucky as they had a room with a queen bed and a single for at least one night. The price was the last thing we asked grateful as we were that we would not be camping in the Volvo.  The room was lovely with a proper bathroom but what’s with the full figure mirrors in the bathrooms? This one was even in the bath and shower unit.

Apparently people eat early in these parts so we weren’t able to get a reservation until 20h30. Never mind, after a tough day M&G took a nap and I tried and tried and tried to get on e-mails and wi-fi. Managed to get e-mails on my cell phone before I lost the connection, but nothing doing with the computer.

We went down to dinner at the appointed time of 20h30. Late it might have been, but it was certainly worth the wait and the staying there. Two of us had the strudel packets of feta and broccoli. They came with salad and I discovered Orkney Gold (the beer not the metal). Up and in bed at a relatively decent time considering that we were three. I didn’t shower so that they could – went first and was well in bed still trying to connect and get things done.  Nice clean hotel though with a view on the bay – quiet so perfect.

 

One of many islands that we passed

The view out our bedroom window.

To use another cliché “all’s well that end’s well”.