The Fringe, Hub and Tattoo…

all rolled into one along with what seems like hundreds of thousands of tourists equals Edinburgh on steriods !

Fringe - the world's largest arts festival!

 Slept the sleep of the righteous – or the dead tire and it was actually my alarm clock that woke me up at 7. Had to go find breakfast as none in my arrangement there – sigh. Had gotten used to the wonderful Scottish breakfasts. Actually if the truth were known I was not very happy to be in a big city. Weird that.

I walked in the correct direction stopping for a cappuccino (good) and a scone (not quite so good if not downright not a scone!).  My travel companions texted that they were on their way so I went on down and walked up the hill towards the castle. 

Castle of Edinburgh with stadium seating for Tattoo

It was only when I logged on to the Tattoo wifi that I found out that I needed it to receive WhatsApp messages. We finally did re-connect with each other around 10h00. I had meanwhile done the souvenir store near the castle. When we connected we went back in and spent too much time there as by the time we went back to the castle (which opened at 9h30 and had basically no lines) the line was way too long. We proceeded to head for the Bobby statue down at Greyfrair’s then into the church grounds and cemetery. 

Greyfrair's Bobby

Most of the churches here charge £2.00 for taking pictures – hmmmmm….. We had gone past the Elephant coffee shop where the first Harry Potter book was written and since G wanted to eat there and none of us had had much breakfast we went at 11h30 before the crowds.

The Elephant House

As the sign says...

Afterwards we continued wandering down the Royal Mile dipping into stores until we arrived at Holyrood – the Queen’s residence in July. It was 15h30 so only time to take in the palace itself and gardens. It didn’t take much imagination to see the Abbey ruins as a whole building nor the “palace” as living quarters. I was actually rather awed to be walking where the Queen lives at least a month of the year! Had a Prosecco and a third of a polenta cupcake with lemon icing. My was that delicious in the castle coffee shop. 

More than one interesting sight on the street

The Royal Mile

The castle - a special camera setting

Holyrood Palace

The Abbey

The world's best cupcake

After having walked all the way back up the Royal Mile and finding the store that I wanted to re-visit inaccessible due to the arrival of the Tattoo participants, we

(or rather I) decided that we should look for a restaurant down on Rose Ave. walking down the hill near the Museum. £55.00 got us two great salads (Caeser for G and a “Rosehip” one for me with greens, artichokes, pine nuts, croutons both black and white, and grilled chicken – scrumptious – and Fish and Chips for M who for the first time was so tired that he didn’t finish it). I treated them and gave G her two cards and a book about Mermaids and other stories from Orkney and both of them a wee Orkney desk calendar. Walked back to the Novotel and got some cheddar (ok 4!) on the way in a Sainsbury.

Knew that I had a voucher at the hotel for having them not make up the room so enjoyed a Prosecco down in the bar before yet again tumbling into the last night of hotel or B&B beds. This travel is hard work!

"The best laid plans of mice and men"…

Can go sadly array.

Day 3 - August 4 

Our Park Guest House in Inverness was delightful if a bit frustrating: no wi-fi to speak and my telephone didn’t always have access either. Getting a taste of what it might be like to be off grid, whether chosen or not. Down to the dining room for our pre-ordered breakfasts (the night before we were to write down our choices from the menu in the hall on scraps of paper) – lovely table and breakfast as ordered.

Park Guest House breakfast setting

Then it was off heading North to catch our ferry, stopping at the Aldi so I could get a toothbrush – forgotten in Edinburgh and not noticed until I needed it last night!

En route we stopped at the Dunrobin Castle and toured it – beautiful. Drive totally along the water thereafter – I hadn’t realized that this bit of Scotland is very similar to Cornwall with water on both sides. Looks larger and wider on the maps. We duly arrived at Gill’s Bay and the Ferry docks with two hours to spare. Checked on things then returned to John O’Groats for lunch. Ended up in a hotel/bar with some very interesting specials such as Texas fries, piri-piri chicken and the like. I was very tempted by the fajita, but in the end ordered a seafood platter starter (two pieces of herring, one of smoked salmon and a lot of shrimp cocktail). That and a mixed salad delicious – had also a bottled beer from directly across the street.

One of the very local brews

A misty day, but beautiful clouds and country

Not the only derrick we saw!

And yes, the colors were this bright!

The TAIN pottery factory and shop

Tain Pottery

A potter's hands

One of the stocking rooms - ready for the first kiln

A wee display of brushes for the hand painting

Entry to Dunrobin Castle

One of many fountains on the grounds

Part of one of the gardens

Satisfied we headed back to the Gill’s Bay Ferry dock and I paid for my single ticket then cracked and bought a cookie “custard cream” supposedly to go with coffee on the Ferry. We boarded and they squeezed us in tight (the cars that is) and went upstairs. 

The Pentland ferry - family run and owned

They had loading and parking down to a science

Clearance in between this truck and the rail was maybe 2 centimeters; in between it and the car on its' rear about 3 cm.

Very shortly thereafter my traveling companions realized that where we were supposed to stay tonight – and were booked – was on a totally different island way farther North. Panic, panic, panic as there was no way that we were going to be able to arrive at 17h30 in St.Margaret’s Hope, drive the half hour to Kirkwall then catch another ferry for an hour and a quarter for this other island (and the maps on the ferry were very clear). M. muddled, G. and I consulted the maps, thought of options etc. A chap to whom we explained our problem when we asked if there was an information booth at the arrival dock, said that there were 3 hotels that he could recommend: The Sands close to where we were arriving; the Standing Stones through Kirkwall and to the left or the Merkister which was up closer to the Neolithic ruins.  We all agreed that it wasn’t going to be possible to get to Pierowall that night. Then we discussed whether we even wanted to go at all given that we would have to back track on a ferry to come to the ruins etc. and more or less decided that we would ditch it entirely, suffering whatever costs that involved and hope to find rooms on the main island – not a given with all the festivals going on and the summer holidays on top of it!  Off we went – checking the Sands, which was the closest first. They were ever so busy so we waited. And got lucky as they had a room with a queen bed and a single for at least one night. The price was the last thing we asked grateful as we were that we would not be camping in the Volvo.  The room was lovely with a proper bathroom but what’s with the full figure mirrors in the bathrooms? This one was even in the bath and shower unit.

Apparently people eat early in these parts so we weren’t able to get a reservation until 20h30. Never mind, after a tough day M&G took a nap and I tried and tried and tried to get on e-mails and wi-fi. Managed to get e-mails on my cell phone before I lost the connection, but nothing doing with the computer.

We went down to dinner at the appointed time of 20h30. Late it might have been, but it was certainly worth the wait and the staying there. Two of us had the strudel packets of feta and broccoli. They came with salad and I discovered Orkney Gold (the beer not the metal). Up and in bed at a relatively decent time considering that we were three. I didn’t shower so that they could – went first and was well in bed still trying to connect and get things done.  Nice clean hotel though with a view on the bay – quiet so perfect.

 

One of many islands that we passed

The view out our bedroom window.

To use another cliché “all’s well that end’s well”.

Always have a brolley in one's bag as...

Edinburgh and Scotland are known for their “mists”.

Day two of the Scottish adventure.

 

It was very amusing this morning when I stepped out in search of breakfast. One minute nothing, next rain, three minutes later yet again nothing. I must have opened and shut my umbrella a half a dozen times in the short hour that I was out and about.

So today is going to be a GREAT DAY –  first of all it would be hard to beat yesterday’s challenges and secondly it’s my birthday (remember the “it’s my party and I’ll cry if I want to” – almost did several times yesterday).

Also whilst looking around the neighbourhood last night I had seen that one of my favourite dining experiences – MILK – was still in existence! So since the hotel currently isn’t offering breakfast what better excuse to check it out. Had a lovely plate of scrambled eggs on Farmer’s bread with a spinach salad and one of the best cappuccinos that I have had in a long time. Great for those more discerning people who don’t mind rudimentary seating and deco (there are several, the one I went to is on Morrison Rd. near Haymarket)– the food is well worth it! http://www.cafemilk.co.uk/west-end/

 

Breakfast at MILK

Upon my return to the hotel Richard was on duty so I could get addresses for a convertor plug and exchange my latest adventures. He was surprised that I hadn’t been awoken by the noise at 4 a.m. but that is probably about the time that I was finally soundly asleep. I gave him the MILK brochure as he didn’t know about it then off I went to try and solve at least some of my “problems” (interestingly he thought that a non-valid credit card was more of a problem than a convertor plug, but my theory that without the convertor plug I couldn’t even begin to solve other problems might have had convinced him – not!).  Walking up to the electronics store had me passing a post office so on the way back I tried getting funds that way – no go, so I am not sure why the Post thinks that it is possible but maybe as it was a small shop… she suggested that I try outside as well, but that too didn’t work. Nevertheless I was able to exchange some of the Swiss francs that I had left in my stash (and was going to take out at home so did I have a premonition that they might come in handy?) so not desperate yet: I do vaguely remember that I wanted to cut back on the food this trip – hmmmm the gods that be are enforcing that perhaps?

Then it was back to the hotel to deal with the credit card, pack and get to the station. Not impressed by the after sales service of Postfinance: three calls, dropped twice, but finally got someone competent on-line (wish that I remember her name as I would certainly write a thank you) who ordered a new one, but also managed to release my current one to a signature-only credit card. Of course now I need to try and use it to make sure it works and certainly before I hit the Orkney Islands where facilities may be few and far between – Inverness will be my proofing ground.

By then time was getting way too short for comfort so rushed down and had Richard order me a cab whilst he was printing my receipt. Had to go the back way around the hill (rather like trying to access the train station in Geneva) so it might have been the same time by tram. On the other hand it certainly was more comfortable and he dropped me off right at the entrance.  There my fortune was looking up. There was a machine just inside the door – instructions were easy and miracle of miracles my card actually worked for ID (leaving me to truly wonder when my credit card went belly up as that purchase was after Wengen) and I had my tickets in hand within minutes. Finding the track was a wee bit stressful, but in the end I was on the train 5 minutes before departure. Minor, very minor, snag (note that I won’t even qualify it as a glitch), no seat reservations honored on this particular train. But the personnel on the key told me that the last couple of wagons hadn’t a soul in them – turned out to be true. Interesting to note that one accesses trains via gates now that are manned by personnel checking tickets. Security is tighter – I sigh for the long-gone days when one didn’t need it.

Beautiful train ride north through the Scottish countryside – every changing skies, shores and pastures made for a pleasant ride.

difficult to make out the torrents of rain as I was boarding the train

One river after the other

mostly bays and water always in sight

Derricks in the North Sea

Hillsides were lush

The sun popped in and out highlighting glorious scenery, small villages and more water

A sight that we were to see hundreds of times

On the arrival tracks in Inverness

Arrived on time and caved to the luxury of a cab to the guest house. I had been able to pull up the address and it looked to be about 25 minutes of walking. With the iffy weather and two pieces of luggage simply didn’t want to do that and couldn’t quite figure out the busses (nor did I see any later along that route). Checked in to yet another wee room with no “en suite”. This time though there is at least a separate toilet just out the door and a shower and large room to the left.

Park Guest House in Inverness

Dumped my luggage at this lovely B&B (http://www.parkguesthouseinverness.co.uk/)literally and headed back out in search of coffee and cake as I hadn’t had any lunch and also in celebration. Ended up walking along the river, across the footbridge and back to the shopping center next to the train station. Coffee and cake in Marc’s and Spencer’s followed by a bit of retail therapy. The excuse of course was that I needed to see if I could use my credit card with signature instead of a nip code.

Yes – hallelujah.

Along the River Ness right in town

Birthday celebration cake and coffee

Walked up to the “castle” as well then headed back footsore and tired. Was almost there when my friends texted that they had arrived. A short reunion and we headed back down and across the river to one of the restaurants that I had seen earlier. Had a lovely celebration at the Waterside Restaurant.

 

A castle which is not a castle

The "castle" at Edinburgh

 

What better meal for a first night than fish 'n chips

Truly a fine birthday.

After filling in our breakfast orders we agreed to meet at 8. Tomorrow we head yet farther north – friends exploring the Orkney Islands together.

No “en suite” was the least of my worries

Note:  blog posting was nigh unto impossible as there was spotty wi-fi connections on Orkney Island and in most Guest Houses so these are being publish after my return.

Day one of my Scottish trip:

It all started out so well: for once I was early to the airport having taken a bus just in case the cement blocks had already gone up on the streets preparatory to the Geneva Festival.

Of course saying goodbye to my younger son – in the bus where we ran into a friend – was not a barrel of laughs, not knowing when or where I will next see him as he is off across the ocean before I return: an adventure without a return date. I did the same so I certainly wish him well, but a mother’s heart remains a mother’s heart.

The flight was easy – I even bought coffee in celebration. The main pursuer a delight with his flattery and jokes and we arrived within 10 minutes of “on time” – even the queuing to show our passports went fairly quickly, luggage came up right away and the bus into town was waiting.

luggage racks on the busses

So far so good.

The first glitch was major – I had received whilst at the airport in my e-mails notification that booking.com had been unable to process my credit card for the two nights at the end of the stay so first things first, try it to see in the Guard’s Hotel. 

Horror of horrors – refused, declined, not usable. Fortunately I had the cash to pay that room. Then I learned that my room didn’t have a bathroom – down the hall but for my usage only, nor did they do breakfasts any longer (under full renovation, but again am pretty sure that my booking said with breakfast – sigh). But back to the credit card problem: am pretty sure where it happened, but astonished that they hadn’t charged my card earlier as well as the fact that it worked later for my train ticket (I think – tomorrow we’ll see). Also totally flabbergasted that at no time did I receive anything from my provider to say that it had been blocked. Scramble, solution(s)? Having travelled back in the days when we had no credit cards and sometimes ran out of money I can at least think. Couldn’t simply go online and pay via e-banking as I hadn’t brought the card reader with me (for a week? Really!); wasn’t sure that I would have enough cash at the end (had foreseen enough for the B&B’s as figured some wouldn’t want credit cards) and was afraid of losing the reservation – right in the middle of the “Fringe” (a whole other story). Finally came up with a very good solution: called younger son who happened to be at home, had him go on my computer, pick up the e-mail in question and “change the credit card” to his! Now have a confirmation that that has been done. And turn about is fair play: many years ago I had to buy him a bus ticket on-line when his funds were inaccessible. My bill is much higher and so, yes, I will reimburse him. Nice to know that parents can be bailed out by kids not that it’s a one-way street!

Second glitch was more pride and hunger.

Chose to return to a restaurant that I had enjoyed years ago when my then housemate and I had travelled to meet her daughter who was studying in Edinburgh. Fairly full but there was a table for one. Waited 10 minutes to be given the menu (the waitress had seated me so she knew that I was there); another 20 for her to come and take my order then sat and sat and sat. Couldn’t see that she was overly busy and finally reminded her that I had ordered. “Oh yes”. Another interminable wait – and still not even my beer. Another reminder – it was all that I could do to remain polite – other tables had simply gotten up and gotten her. Oh dear, she had the order but had forgotten to put it in. Still on vacation mode and wanted my fish cakes and beer so waited some more. At the end of an hour though enough was enough and I simply left. Wonder if she even noticed? A word to those travelling to Edinburgh – be very pro-active should you decide to eat at the Haymarket in Haymarket.

And of course there was a third glitch (my favourite number is three and if I don’t have a third disaster I am always uneasy until it happens thus closing the circle until the next time). I had brought my convertor plug for the UK… but the top bit where my plugs should have gone was too loose. No that is a true disaster – not be able to re-charge my computer, my cell phone, my cameras?  My plugs were too heavy for the razor plug and I was only saved by the fact that under my bed on the floor there was a bar with one plug in it. Was able to re-charge all three items during the night and tomorrow is another day – another adventure.

The fact that my room was rather an old monastic cell and that my bathroom was three doors down was a very minor inconvenience.

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Spartan but functional

Good things: on-time plane; decent flight; good public transportation; wifi everywhere in Scotland

Less so: no bath in the room; no credit card; no plug; no service; noisy neighbors.

It would look as though the bad outweighed the good – not so: all was saved by the competence, friendliness and hospitality of Richard at the reception desk. He listened to my woes, was very thorough in his explanation of the quirks of the front door, the no “en suite” etc. then it turns out that he had spent 6 months traveling Canada and was, in fact, not from Scotland at all but from South Africa. A world traveler always makes a great person to have on the reception desk!

So, yet again, although the Guard’s Hotel http://www.guardshotel.co.uk/ is rather dated (but they are in the process of upgrading, everyone has changed except the owners), it is so ideally located next to the Haymarket train station with tons of public transportation possibilities and is within walking distance of Prince’s street that I will continue to use it and recommend it for anyone travelling to Edinburgh.

Bobbie Burns himself

Parliament above the town

one of the beauties in one of the parks

Edinburgh

Another beauty